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Ssäm Bar was Chang’s second restaurant; Ko was his third.

Chang is only thirty, but in the past couple of years he has unexpectedly and, in his mind, accidentally and probably fraudulently, become one of the most celebrated chefs in the country.

He and Chang both raze their hair to buzz cuts, but while Chang’s makes his head look rounder and more baby-like, Serpico’s makes him look sharper, wirier, ready to flee.“O.

K., the one thing we don’t have down and standardized is scallops, which we’re gonna do right now.”They’d been working on the scallop dish for weeks.

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It looked like the sea and tasted like the sea, and Chang was extremely proud of it. “I wanted it over easy, you know—I wanted to pretend I was Fred Flintstone.

He is way too neurotic to handle this, however, so he compensates by representing himself as a bumbling idiot.